A watch occupies a strange position among accessories: in an era when almost nobody needs one to tell the time, buying one is a purely deliberate choice, which makes it worth thinking through more carefully than an impulse purchase deserves. Unlike most jewellery, a well-chosen watch is also one of the few accessories genuinely built to be repaired and passed down rather than replaced.
Case Size and Proportion
Case size has shifted noticeably smaller in general fashion in recent years, but the right size still depends far more on wrist circumference than on any prevailing trend. A case that overhangs the wrist noticeably on both sides looks disproportionate regardless of how fashionable that size is considered at any given moment; trying a watch on, rather than buying based on a size that suited someone else, is the only reliable way to judge this.
Movement Type: What It Means Practically
A quartz movement, powered by a battery, is the most accurate and the lowest-maintenance option, requiring almost no attention beyond an occasional battery change. A mechanical movement, whether hand-wound or automatic, requires more regular attention — winding, or wearing it often enough that an automatic keeps its charge — but is generally the type associated with heirloom-quality pieces and the kind most likely to be serviced and repaired rather than discarded decades from now. Neither is objectively better; the choice depends on whether you want a low-maintenance daily tool or a piece you are prepared to maintain more actively in exchange for the mechanical craftsmanship.
Water Resistance Ratings Are Easy to Misread
A watch rated for everyday splash resistance is not necessarily suitable for swimming, and a rating intended for swimming is not necessarily suitable for diving, since the pressure involved is considerably different in each case. Checking the specific rating, rather than assuming any water-resistant label covers all wet activities, avoids the fairly common mistake of damaging a watch during an activity it was never designed for.
Strap Versus Bracelet
A metal bracelet is generally more durable and requires less frequent replacement than a leather strap, which will eventually crack or stretch with regular wear and sweat exposure. A leather strap, however, is easier and cheaper to swap out for a different look, effectively giving a single watch face several different styling registers depending on the strap fitted. Fabric or rubber straps are the most practical for regular exercise or exposure to water, without the maintenance concerns either metal or leather carries in those conditions.
Buying for Longevity Rather Than Trend
Because a good watch is a genuinely long-term purchase, a simple, restrained dial — without excessive branding or a design tied to a specific passing trend — tends to remain wearable for far longer than something more distinctive. This is one accessory category where restraint at the point of purchase pays off disproportionately over the years of ownership that follow, since a watch bought purely because it suited a moment’s trend often looks visibly dated within a few years in a way a plainer design does not.
Servicing and Long-Term Ownership
A mechanical watch generally benefits from a professional service every few years, involving cleaning, lubrication, and checking the accuracy of the movement; skipping this maintenance is one of the more common ways an otherwise well-made watch degrades faster than it should. Quartz watches require far less of this kind of attention, generally needing only an occasional battery replacement, which is worth factoring into the true cost of ownership over a decade rather than judging purely on the purchase price.
Watches from well-established manufacturers with a long service history tend to hold resale value better than newer or less established brands, partly because parts and servicing remain available for longer. This is worth considering if resale value or eventually passing a watch down is part of the reason for buying a more expensive piece in the first place.
One Watch or Several
A single, versatile watch in a simple design can genuinely cover everyday wear, work, and most evening occasions, which is a reasonable approach for anyone who does not want to think about matching a watch to an outfit. A second, dressier watch — a slimmer case, a simple leather strap — is worth adding only once the first watch is genuinely in daily rotation and a clear gap in occasions has emerged, rather than as an early purchase before the everyday piece has proven its use.
For other accessories worth buying with the same long-term mindset, our guide to timeless accessories worth every penny covers the same principle applied more broadly, and the case for investing in fewer, better pieces lays out the underlying reasoning for spending more on less.